Kutch embroidery is an evolving expression of the craft and textile traditions of the Rabaris, a nomadic tribe in Gujarat. This folk embroidery is done using cotton or silk thread on cotton cloth.Certain styles use silk and a satin-like material too. Square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches are used to create intricate patterns. Thanks to the liberal use of multi-shaped glass pieces, the garments literally glitter. And, every bold stitch and glass piece used is reflective of the rituals and folklore of the Rabaris.
Kutch embroidery takes one into a world where colours explode in unique embroidery forms. "Kutch work is unique in the sense that a net is woven on a cloth using thread. This embroidery follows its own traditional design logic and juxtaposition of colours and motifs.
.The finest aari embroidery was carried out for the royalty and wealthy families. Traditionally women in rural areas do the embroidery for presenting in the dowries.Unfortunately many of these fine skills have now been lost though some are being rejuvenated through handicrafts initiatives. Today over 16 different types of embroideries are being produced commercially by a few societies and a couple of private corporations. Some of the finest new embroideries in the world are still being produced by over 6,000 women artisans of the region.
Embroideries like Zardosi, Bhanusali, Jain etc. are today extinct and one can see old pieces in museums or with collectors only. Important resource centers for embroidery in the region are Shrujan, Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan (KMVS), Kalaraksha and Women Artisans' Marketing Agency (WAMA). Another important art of Kutch is bandhani, which primarily originated in the region. Women wear saris of bandhani art on festive occasions like marriages, or holidays like Navaratri and Diwali.
Embroidery from the Saurashtra and Kutch regions in Gujarat is not only famous but also versatile. There are plenty of stitches used to beautify the product. Abhala is the embroidery where small round pieces of mirrors are fixed on to the fabric using buttonhole stitching; the embroidery is done in a herringbone stitch using silken thread. Rust, light green, indigo, blue, deep red, pink, and purple are the colours used. skirts, kurtis(ladies shirt) and richly embroidered blouses are the other famous items by the craftsperson’s. Kathi is the oldest embroidery which is known for its romantic motifs. Geometrical motifs are fabricated with multicolored fabric pieces leading to patch work effect. Varieties of items are prepared. Heer is an embossed stitch having shades of off-white, yellow, madder red, black, indigo, ivory, and green. Small mirror pieces are used to add more beauty to the embroidery.
Ari embroidery with silk threads using a hook is a popular craft of Kutch. The motifs found commonly are, dancing peacocks, human figures in dancing poses. A Bandhani pattern complimented with beautiful and delicate bead work is an art to be praised. The various communities in Gujarat --- rabaris , ahirs, , jats, bharwads bharwads and harijans have their own styles of embroidery. Cotton and quality silks are used by jats and mutuwas to decorate women's outfits. The embroidery of the Rabari community is usually done on a maroon background with the enclosed motifs.